Bearded dragons: perhaps the most common pet lizard out there – lovable for their friendliness and unique personalities. This is our guide covering all you need to know before you get your own beardie.

NATURAL HISTORY

The central or ‘inland’ bearded dragon was first described by Ernst Ahl, in 1926. They are native to central and mid-Australia, in dry scrubland to semi-desert arid environments. Bearded dragons are now one of the most popular pet lizards kept by hobbyists, likely due to their tolerance for handling and daytime activity levels as well as relative ease of care.

These lizards can reach a total length of up to 60cm and can live an average of 10 years in captivity, with many recent reports being longer than this, coinciding with ongoing improvements in reptile husbandry practises. Bearded dragons owe their name to their throat that they can darken and puff out when threatened, looking like a spiny beard. Their colours and patterns vary quite widely from browns, to red, yellow, white, or orange. Being in the trade for a number of decades has led to selective breeding to amplify certain colour traits. Other species of Pogona have entered the pet trade, such as the western bearded dragon Pogona minor minor, but the majority of dragons in the pet trade today are thought to be descended from illegally exported stock of P. vitticeps from the 1970s. 

CHOOSING YOUR HOUSING

Bearded dragons require generous space to thrive in captivity. Keep in mind that young bearded dragons grow quite fast, so starting out in a smaller size enclosure will not last you long. The minimum size recommended to start with is ~4ftx2ftx2ft, but additional space will always be appreciated by these lizards if you have the means to do so. They are terrestrial by nature but will use height space by climbing branch or rock decorations provided.

When gathering all the necessary components needed for your reptile some planning would be beneficial in case any modifications need to be made to allow for climbing apparatus or installation of light fittings. It will be essential to use the space in your enclosure to position décor in a way that allows an elevated basking platform and shaded areas. Wooden or melamine vivariums that are front-opening work best for heat retention and accessibility. A range of suitable vivaria are available from VivExotic, for example. 

Though you may have heard otherwise, bearded dragons do not need companionship to be healthy and happy. In fact, attempts to house more than one beardie together have often resulted in stress, poor health and even serious injuries. Male bearded dragons are extremely territorial and will not tolerate each other without fighting. Females are also not always necessarily compatible and will often end up competing for basking spots and food, as bearded dragons have a natural social hierarchy. Even as juveniles, they can stress and even injure each other. Housing males and females together is also not advised.

To tell the sex of your bearded dragon accurately they should be at least about 5 months old. In males, bulges will appear just below the cloaca (hemipenes), and they will develop femoral pores above this area. Males are generally broader and larger than females, and when mature will display behaviours such as darkening the beard and head-bobbing. 

HEATING

Accurate heating will be paramount for the health of your bearded dragon. As with other reptile species, creating a thermal gradient in the vivarium is important – hottest on one side, gradually decreasing towards the other, cool end of the enclosure. This allows self-regulation. Beardies are diurnal (day active) lizards that bask under the sun. This makes light-producing heat sources a solid choice. The recommended types are daylight basking lamps, such as the Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamp or ProRep Basking Spot.

Lights such as these need to be controlled with a dimming thermostat. Digital thermometers and hygrometers are also recommended in order to monitor the environmental conditions in your enclosure. The wattage you need will depend on the size of your enclosure and the distance from the source of heat to your reptile. The heat spread from the light source should be wide enough to warm your beardie’s entire body evenly while underneath it. The basking hot spot needs to be 38°C – 42°C, and daytime ambient temperatures should be around 28°C at the warm side, down to about 25°C on the cool side.

At night, the ambient temperature can drop as low as 18°C, although hatchlings should be kept slightly warmer than this. Ensure that your heating equipment is controlled by a quality thermostat. If you are in a location where your enclosure will become much colder than this when the daytime heating turns off, a low wattage ceramic heat emitter on a dimmer stat can be used to keep the night temperatures warm enough. Ceramic heaters positioned above an elevated basking spot or decoration should be fitted with a guard to prevent your bearded dragon from accidentally burning itself. 

Easy transitions from day to night are possible with a timer switch or thermostat such as the Microclimate Evo Light. Light periods can vary by season; up to 14 hours a day in summer following a gradual reduction to 8 hours for winter. Having UVB reduced by 2 hours either side of your basking light turning on and off can create a ‘dawn to dusk’ transitional period. 

UV

UVB lighting is also essential for a bearded dragon. Being avid sun baskers, they will have a lot of UV exposure in the wild and this is for good reason. They need this to produce vitamin D3 in the skin. Without it, they cannot absorb calcium sufficiently in the body, leading to a number of risks to bone, muscle, immune system, and brain health. Metabolic bone disease is seen very often in bearded dragons and other lizards who have not been provided correct amounts of UVB. While D3 supplements are available, the only way to know if your reptile is producing the amount they need is to provide them with the appropriate UVB lighting and allow them to intuitively self-regulate their exposure as they would in the wild. This exposure will also benefit their circadian rhythm and prompt natural behaviour cycles.

UVB lamps come in percentages or the more progressive ‘zone’ classification. Bearded dragons will require a 12% UVB output or Ferguson Zone 3 ultraviolet index. The classification will depend on the branding – for example, a Reptile Systems D3 Pro T5 Zone 3 or 12% tube will suit your bearded dragon. As for size, 2/3 of the enclosure length works well. Alternatively, mercury vapour and metal halide lamps can serve to emit heat and UVB light simultaneously. However, these lamps are not compatible with thermostats, so it is common to select a low wattage unit for safety and pair this with a regular incandescent basking lamp with a thermostat. Again, choose a lamp with a wide spread and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on distances and exposure.

Ultimately, the method of lighting and heating you choose is down to preference and enclosure dimensions – so long as the correct temperatures and UVI are achieved. 

SUBSTRATE

Husbandry practises for bearded dragons are moving away from previous fears of impaction caused by loose substrates, following the logic that wild bearded dragons routinely ingest substrate when eating without apparent consequence. The soil in their natural environment is fairly hard-packed and not alike to a typical ‘desert dune’. There are some marketed loose substrates that are not suitable, like any indigestible wood chips, gravel or walnut shells.

A reliable option is to go for reptile-specific substrates produced by exotics brands. ProRep features a Beardie Life made for bearded dragons, and a selection of desert blends. Mixing with a clay such as ZooMed’s Excavator Clay and utilising rocks or slate can all work in combination to make a naturalistic ground surface good for digging in as well as flat areas for basking or to be used as a feeding platform – avoiding substrate ingestion almost entirely.

With correct husbandry alongside suitable substrate choice, impaction is a very unlikely occurrence (inadequate heating prevents proper digestion in reptiles). Additionally, natural substrates will benefit your bearded dragon by creating a more enriching environment and allowing natural behaviours, like digging. Females are especially prone to digging as a nesting behaviour. Even when kept alone, females may lay infertile eggs, so having an environment in which she can dig will feel a lot more secure in that instance. 

DECORATION

Bearded dragons are active and inquisitive; they benefit from engaging and enriching environments. A lot of enclosure decoration is down to preference, but there are some baseline essentials. You will need a dish for offering fresh greens. A dish with daily fresh water should also be provided.

Rocks or branches to climb on, especially for basking, are important. In the wild bearded dragons are often found basking in low trees or even farmland fences. Decoration will also create shaded areas for when your dragon wants to rest in a cooler or darker area. The more naturalistic you can make it, the better it will be for your dragon.

FEEDING

 The diet of bearded dragons is made up of both live insects and fresh greens. Both of these food types should be introduced from the beginning, as your dragon may become stubborn if it develops a preference. Insects can be easily over-offered; obesity in bearded dragons is quite a common problem. Remember that food sources would be quite scarce in the wild. Common plant staples include rocket, mustard greens, watercress, endive and plantain leaves. Darker greens such as kale, cabbages, broccoli, spinach and bok choy can be given more occasionally, but they contain high levels of oxalates that can interrupt calcium uptake if eaten too often.

Bearded dragons can eat some flowers, such as dandelions, honeysuckle and hibiscus. Ensure that greens have not been sprayed with any pesticides. Vegetables can also be added for variety. The following are suitable: pumpkin, butternut squash, green beans, carrots, courgette, and bell peppers. For very infrequent treats, you can offer the following fruit: grapes, banana, raspberry, strawberry, blackberries, or mango – avoid overconsumption of these for their high sugar content. However, used sparingly, all of these foods will keep your bearded dragon well fed with vitamins and minerals, as well as hydrated. Make sure to cut up fresh food to the appropriate size for your dragon. 

Bearded dragons can eat a variety of live foods, especially as adults. These should be properly cared for and fed (“gut-loaded”) to enhance their nutritional content. Staple livefoods include brown and black crickets, locusts, dubia roaches, mealworms and morioworms. Waxworms should be a very occasional treat because they have a high fat content. You can feed your dragon directly from a container/bowl or use tongs to feed them – this can also help your dragon to develop a positive relationship with you initially.

The amount depends on the age of your beardie. Hatchlings are growing rapidly and require small insects and chopped greens twice a day. As a guide, offer mostly greens at this stage, and a few insects no larger than the width between the eyes (as many as they can eat in about 5 minutes). Offering greens for a while before. After a few weeks of growing until around 6 months offer greens and insects once per day. Gradually reduce food intake as your dragon becomes an adult (around 1 year). Greens should become a large part of the diet and should be given every day.

Remember to dust livefood with a good quality calcium supplement, and use a reptile-specific vitamin supplement such as VetArk Nutrobal or ZooMed Reptivite twice per week. Supplements are available with or without added vitamin D3 – be more sparing with a D3 variety, since your dragon will be producing their own under UVB lighting, and too much D3 can be harmful. Refer to the instructions of your chosen product for accurate dosage. 

MAINTENANCE

Daily maintenance of bearded dragons is straightforward. Water should be changed every day, as well as the green foods. Any leftover insect food that may have evaded being eaten should be removed until the next time your beardie will be offered insects. Check daily for any waste and spot-clean (beardies leave droppings fairly frequently).

A full cleanout of the enclosure is normally due when a significant amount of the substrate has been removed via spot cleaning, or if you personally think it needs to be cleaned out. Normally every 2 – 3 weeks. Remember to use reptile-friendly disinfectant, such as F10. Using thermometers, you can observe that the temperatures are maintaining correctly day-to-day. Make sure to also check your beardie’s overall body condition now and again for early detection of any health issues. It is also recommended to become familiar with your nearest exotic vet. 

FAQ

Why is my beardie’s skin becoming flaky? This is typical in shedding for bearded dragons. They aren’t prone to experiencing shedding issues. Some dragons will appreciate a light misting, or even a soak in a shallow warm bath to aid with shedding. Don’t be tempted to pull it off yourself, though. Shedding becomes less frequent as your dragon ages.

How do I handle my bearded dragon? Be patient, especially with very young beardies that may at first be skittish. Bearded dragons are known for taking well to handling, especially because they are awake in the daytime (try not to disturb your dragon at night). Don’t over-handle your bearded dragon at first either in case they become stressed. Start by getting your dragon used to being around you, like putting your hands in the enclosure and perhaps letting them approach you first. Hand or tong feeding can help build a positive relationship too. To pick up a bearded dragon go slowly beneath their stomach to lift them. They often will enjoy sitting around with you or running around the room – be careful of any other pets, and make sure the room is secure. 

Do bearded dragons hibernate? In response to cooler weather, many reptiles will enter a semi-hibernation state known as brumation. During this time reptiles will stay in cooler areas and spend most of their time resting, occasionally drinking and eating significantly less or not at all. For bearded dragons, this can occur from around September onwards, even if you are keeping temperature and lighting consistent – reptiles have a certain awareness for changing seasons and daylight hours. Some dragons may also never react to this at all. If you notice your dragon slowing down, no longer eating and basking, there shouldn’t be need to worry as this is a natural process. If it’s occurring at a separate time of the year or is accompanied by any troubling symptoms you should get your bearded dragon checked with your exotic vet.

To aid brumation you can vastly reduce the lighting and heating or turn it off entirely, so long as the ambient temperature doesn’t drop lower than around 14°C. Visually check on your bearded dragon daily just to monitor body condition. Dragons reportedly rarely lose more than a few grams of bodyweight, so only rapid, visible weight loss should be concerning. They’ll likely be sleeping and perfectly still for most of the time during brumation. After 2-3 months (often around early January), you’ll likely find your dragon awake again and ready to start warming up. Encourage them to drink. It may take them a few days to eat anything. 

RESOURCES

• Ultraviolet Light and Reptiles, Amphibians [Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery]
• What UV Light Do Reptiles Need? [UV Guide UK]
• Guide to Ferguson Zones [Reptile Systems]

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