Colourful and well natured snakes, corn snakes have been popular in the trade for decades. Here is our guide on everything you need to know before getting one of your own.

NATURAL HISTORY

Alongside royal pythons, corn snakes are likely the most popular pet snake species in the UK today. They are a Colubrid snake species in the rat snake family that hunt their prey via constriction. Corn snakes are named for their frequent sightings – since as early as 1675 – in North American corn fields and stores where they prey on the mice living there. They have also been reported eating small lizards and frogs, and even bird eggs from trees. Corn snakes reach an average length of 120-180cm (males usually being larger) as adults, which can take 2-3 years to reach. An average lifespan for corn snakes is known to be 10 – 15 years, but as husbandry improves many snakes can push 20+ years. They make a popular choice in the reptile keeping hobby for their manageable size, easy-going temperament and many colour morph varieties that have been bred since entering the pet trade in the 1990’s.

CHOOSING YOUR HOUSING

A wide wooden vivarium such as a Vivexotic works well for corn snakes as they hold warmth well. Glass terrariums such as those by ExoTerra can also be a viable option with correct heating. Snakes are known escape artists, so getting a lock for the doors is highly recommended. As for size, an adult corn snake should ideally have a minimum 3ftx2ftx2ft enclosure. Corn snakes are primarily terrestrial but are active and known to climb readily. The idea is to have enough room for your snake to at least stretch out fully. You can buy a smaller enclosure for a hatchling if you prefer, but putting them in an enclosure suitable for their adult size is also perfectly fine – they’ll just need some more decorations and hides to feel safe and hidden. Corn snakes are mostly nocturnal, but may move around in the daytime to warm up for a short while.

Telling the sex of your corn snake isn’t quite as straightforward as with other reptiles such as lizards. The store or breeder you purchase from may have already checked the sex by ‘popping’ or ‘probing’ – never attempt this yourself as they can injure your snake; professionals who have been trained to do this can do it for you – often staff at your local reptile store. Another method is by looking at the body shape of a more mature snake. After the cloaca (vent) of the snake, males will have a thicker start to the tail followed by sudden taper, indicating the internal reproductive organs. Females will have a slightly shorter tail with a more ‘gradual’ taper in thickness.

HEATING

Correct heating is important for snakes, being ectothermic (subject to environmental temperatures to regulate their own). The aim is to create a thermal gradient in the enclosure where one side is warmer and becomes cooler towards the other end. The hot area for a corn snake should be around 30°C – 32°C, with the ambient temperature being 28°C to 24°C towards the cooler side. You should use digital thermometers to keep track of the temperatures in your terrarium. At night, the temperature can drop to as low as 18°C. It is advisable however to keep the ambient temperature closer to 24°C. You can achieve correct temperatures with a heat mat, or a ceramic heat emitter.

If you are using a heat mat, ensure there is no more than about an inch of substrate on top of it for sufficient heat transfer to your snake; it will also require a thermostat to control the temperature and prevent overheating. A ceramic heat emitter delivers heat from overhead which is considered to be more true to nature and avoids the substrate issue, while also giving a wide spread of heat. This will also require a (pulse) thermostat, ceramic holder and a suitable guard to prevent your snake from burning itself if it decides to climb upwards onto the lamp. Because neither of these heaters emit light, you can set them to stay on at night if your room will get significantly colder than 18°C. Avoid lamps marketed as night time lighting; reptiles can see these colours and it will disturb them.

UV

Advances in research into reptile husbandry has shown that all reptiles benefit from certain amounts of UVB exposure and corn snakes are no exception, since they would bask under the sun to thermoregulate in the wild. UVB helps snakes utilise the calcium in their food for healthy bone development, as well as immune system function and natural activity rhythms. A fluorescent tube of about 5% UVB (or Ferguson Zone 1) will be enough for corn snakes. For a 3ft long vivarium example, a Reptile Systems Eco T5 tube of Zone 1 strength would be adequate for a corn snake. Check the manufacturer information on the output of the tube you choose relating to the height of the enclosure – use of a reflector can help create a more intense UVB spread if needed. The lighting can be turned on for 10-14 hours a day (longer or shorter depending on the season). For further information, resources on reptile UVB requirements are provided below. You can plug the lighting into a timer switch to make the on/off transitions automatically.

SUBSTRATE

Corn snakes do not come from high humidity environments, so a dry, absorbent substrate works well for them. ProRep Snake Life is very suitable, as are different types of beech chips, aspen and hemp. For a more natural look, reptile-safe soil mixes are suitable. Always opt for branded substrates made for reptiles, as other types may contain toxic substances if they are ingested or inhaled. 

DECORATION

It is essential to have at least two hiding places in the enclosure for your snake; one on the warm side and one at the cool side, but you can add more than this. They also appreciate wooden branches to climb on – these will encourage your snake to be active and provide enrichment in doing so. Heavy artificial ornaments or rocks/slate or artificial plants will also be good for providing additional hiding spots and retaining heat for your snake to utilise. The shade that decorations provide is also important for your corn snake to regulate its UVB exposure during the day. Do not use ‘hot rocks’ as they are not temperature regulated and easily burn reptiles.

A water dish is also needed and fresh water should be given daily. It should be placed towards the cool end and be big enough for full or partial soaking so your snake can cool itself or soak when preparing to shed its skin. During this time (your snake’s colouration will appear dull and their eyes become cloudy and blue) you can also lightly mist the enclosure to add some humidity and aid with loosening the skin. Misting inside the cool hide can provide an enclosed humid spot, inside which your snake can shed.

FEEDING

When purchasing your corn snake, particularly if they are a hatchling, a feeding record from the seller is always a good sign that your snake has a healthy appetite. Corn snakes readily accept frozen-thawed mice and rats in captivity. Hatchlings will start out on the smallest ‘pinky’ mice once per week. As your snake grows you can increase the size of the offered food (as a rough guide, 1.5x the widest part of your snake). Ensure the food item has plenty of time to thaw, but is not left out long enough to go bad (a few hours at room temperature should be just right for a small food item, or overnight in the refrigerator). It is recommended to offer food using tongs. If your snake is particularly shy you can leave the item in the enclosure overnight and check to see if your snake has eaten later. It’s common for very young snakes to defensively strike the food item multiple times.

Feeding frequency should also decrease as the snake ages. As adults, corn snakes should not be fed any more often than once every 2 weeks. They are active snakes with faster metabolisms than heavy pythons but are easily overfed in captivity, and obese snakes struggle to lose additional weight. Snakes are opportunists in the wild and would not be guaranteed prey regularly. Rats and mice of similar size can be alternated for variety, as well as including the occasional chick or gerbil if they are available. 

MAINTENANCE

Once your snake is set up and settled in, daily maintenance is not very demanding. Change the water daily and spot-check to remove any droppings. A full clean of the enclosure is recommended every 4 weeks or so – use reptile-safe disinfectant such as F10 or VetArk Ark Klens. Check the overall condition of your snake regularly, especially to check if any skin has remained stuck after shedding (usually on the head and tail). To remove this try soaking your snake in shallow warm water or a damp pillowcase for a short while. 

FAQ

Do snakes carry salmonella? All reptiles carry naturally occurring amounts of the bacteria that cause salmonella, but this is rarely a health issue unless hygiene is not maintained. Make sure to remove waste as soon as possible from the enclosure and always wash your hands after handling or cleaning your reptile. 

How do I handle my snake? Corn snakes can be handled from hatchlings and often become used to it quite quickly. Keep in mind though that they are active snakes and can be a bit skittish when they are young, so try handling close to a flat surface at first just in case of any falls. Always gently touch your snake mid-body so they are alert to your presence and then gently lift them from this area (don’t grab the head or the end of their tail). Don’t handle your snake for at least a day after you have fed them so they can digest their food properly.

Can my snake get sick? It is rare with correct husbandry, but still possible. Become acquainted with your nearest exotic vet when you get your snake for the instance that you may need to take them there for treatment. Any abnormal droppings may need to be taken in for sampling just in case of infection or parasites. An annual assessment of a stool sample by your vet is good practice. If your snake refuses to eat once or twice it shouldn’t be anything to worry about; observe their weight and body condition for any rapid weight loss. Wheezing or sneezing sounds coming from your snake may indicate a respiratory infection that needs to be treated by a vet. Regurgitation can also occasionally happen, but you can take your snake in for an assessment if you are concerned.

Should I feed my snake in a separate tank? This isn’t necessary and feeding in the enclosure won’t make your snake ‘cage aggressive’. Ingesting a small amount of substrate alongside their food is also fine, so long as the substrate is reptile-safe. All reptiles including snakes have slightly different attitudes, so some may be more jumpy or food-responsive, but making your snake aware of your presence before reaching in and feeding using tongs is your best bet. As an aside, corn snake bites aren’t painful or concerning. 

Do snakes hibernate? In the colder months, corn snakes enter a semi-hibernation state called brumation where they become drastically less active and do not eat. It is after this cooling period that they enter breeding season in the spring. It’s not necessary to simulate this for your corn snake unless you are trying to encourage breeding. You can simply keep the temperatures steady year-round.

RESOURCES

• Ultraviolet Light and Reptiles, Amphibians [Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery]
• What UV Light Do Reptiles Need? [UV Guide UK]
• Guide to Ferguson Zones [Reptile Systems]