An extremely popular pet for their docile nature, manageable size and vast array of colour morphs, the royal python indeed makes a wonderful choice for a pet snake. Here is our guide to best care for Python regius.

NATURAL HISTORY

Royal pythons are now one of the most popular pet snake species. Also called ball pythons for their defensive habit of curling up, they are a nonvenomous constrictor with a docile temperament and thousands of colour morph varieties. Naturally they have an appealing pattern of dark brown to black markings on a brown background, fading into variable golds and creams to a pale underside. They have a wide range across sub-Saharan West and Central Africa, ranging from grassland to forests to farmland.

They are a relatively small member of the python family of snakes, reaching 1 – 1.5 metres long when fully grown. They are terrestrial and nocturnal by nature, but exhibit behaviours of both resting in burrows and climbing small trees to hunt or bask. Their calm temperament and generally easy husbandry make them a good choice for those new to reptile keeping looking for a snake. Royal pythons can live for an average of 25 years, and reports of longer are quite common. The oldest royal pythons have lived more than 45 years in captivity.

CHOOSING YOUR HOUSING

The minimum size enclosure for an adult royal python should be 4ft x 2ft x 4ft, with length being the largest dimension. For snakes it’s ideal for your snake to at least be able to fully stretch out. While old misconceptions about these pythons stated that they lived almost their whole lives in burrows while being inactive, they will definitely use the space you give them and can be quite active, especially at night. Wooden vivaria are the most common choice as they keep warmth in very well. Juvenile snakes can live in this size enclosure so long as enough hiding places are provided to prevent them from feeling exposed and vulnerable. It’s recommended to get a lock for the doors of the enclosure to prevent escape, of which snakes are experts.

HEATING

The best sources of heat for royal pythons should be overhead, mimicking the heat of daytime sunlight. Incandescent or halogen basking bulbs suit this method, such as a 50w halogen spot bulb. These should be attached to a dimming thermostat to control the temperature, as well as having a guard fitted to prevent your snake from burning if it attempts to climb upwards. Basking spot temperatures for royal pythons should be in the range of 31°C-38°C. Some variance is ok but exceeding 40°C is considered too hot. The ambient temperature in the enclosure should range from 28°C at the warmer end down to 25°C at the cooler side, providing a temperature gradient for your snake to regulate its temperature.

Another method of heating the warm end of the enclosure is using a ceramic heat emitter or infrared projector. These do not produce any light but are effective at raising ambient air temperature, particularly if your enclosure becomes too cold in the night. These lightless heat projectors will need a thermostat such as a pulse stat and a guard to as well to prevent burns. Night time temperatures can be as low as about 22°C. At least one thermometer should be used to keep track of the enclosure temperatures.

UV

Royal pythons benefit from exposure to UVB lighting, simply because they would experience this exposure during bouts of thermoregulatory basking in the wild. UVB allows the synthesis of vitamin D3 in the skin of reptiles, allowing proper uptake of dietary calcium for bone health and immune system function. On top of this UV lighting provides UVA which contributes to their vision quality and creates cues for natural activity rhythms through having a clear day/night cycle. A light cycle of 12hr-12hr is recommended.

Royal pythons do well under a UVB intensity in the range of 0.7 to a maximum of 3.0 UV Index, also known as Ferguson Zone 2, or 5-6% UVB depending on the manufacturer. In the recommended enclosure dimensions of 4ftx2ftx2ft, a Reptile Systems Zone 2 T5 tube (850mm, 39w) would provide a UVI of 0.7 – 1.3 at 40cm distance from your snake. Information on understanding UVB needs for reptiles and how to achieve this is included in the Resources section.

SUBSTRATE

Royal pythons appreciate a moderate level of humidity in their environment, but a range of suitable snake substrates are available. A substrate under a reptile-specific brand is the best way to make sure there are no indigestible particles or toxic chemicals included (snakes sometimes ingest substrate at feedings). Beech Chips, forest Bark Chips or a more dry absorbent substrate such as ProRep Snake Life are all suitable; some will simply need more moisture added via misting than others. The cool side of the enclosure should be quite humid (average 70%-90%).

Keep track of humidity using a hygrometer. Background humidity will be different depending on where you live and the substrate you are using, so boost it daily if necessary, with a light misting of water. Do not oversaturate the substrate; these snakes are prone to fungal infections and respiratory infections from waterlogged conditions. Another method is to add a damp substrate to a hide on the cool side and keep it damp, creating a humid spot for your snake to retreat to. Humidity is especially important for complete shedding.

DECORATION

Royal pythons are often considered shy and secretive snakes, needing places of refuge in their enclosure. A minimum of two hiding places are recommended, at the warm and cool ends of the enclosure so your snake can still hide away while it thermoregulates. The royal python can be quite active and climbing apparatus such as driftwood branches make for excellent enrichment, as do other artificial plants and decorations. A water bowl large enough for partial or full submersion should be provided and will add to the overall humidity.

FEEDING

Royal pythons are carnivores that feed on mammals (rats and mice) and birds (chicks and quail) in captivity (frozen/thawed food items). Hatchlings will generally start out on appropriately sized small mice to rats, offered 1x per week. As your snake grows, the size of the food offered will increase and the frequency of feeding should decrease. As a guide, offer a food item as wide as 1 – 1.5x the widest part of the snake. By the time they reach adult hood after around a year or so, feeding should be reduced drastically to about 1x evert 6 weeks, plus or minus 2 weeks for variety in routine.

Ensure the food is thawed completely. Obesity is a growing problem in captive snakes and reptiles struggle to lose excess weight. Weighing your snake as it grows is a good way to keep a track of this. Healthy adults weigh 1kg – 1.5kg normally, and 2kg+ is normally considered overweight. Visible body condition is also a reliable method. The general circumference shape of a healthy royal python is described as a ‘soft triangle’. A more angular shape with a protruding spine is considered underweight, while a rounded shape indicates overweight.

A study on the natural diet of royal pythons found that female pythons ate a ratio of 70% mammals to 30% birds, while males on average ate 70% birds and 30% mammals. You can follow these ratios, but any of the mammal/bird frozen food items available to you for your snake will provide them a good diet.

On purchasing your snake, the breeder/seller will likely already have checked the sex., by the ‘popping’ or ‘probing’ methods (examining the internal reproductive organs). This practice should only be done by people trained to do so as it can easily injure your snake when done improperly.

A royal python may occasionally refuse offerings of food and have developed a small reputation for doing so. However, this is a normal behaviour and problems only arise due to sickness or inadequate husbandry. Your snake may require a week or two to settle into their new home, so refusal during this time is normal. At any other point, check that your enclosure temperature/humidity is correct and wait a week before attempting to feed them again.

Over handling can also cause stress, which may cause them to stop eating, so reducing handling times is sensible until they regain a healthy feeding response. Other factors include shedding; many snakes are not interested in food until after they have shed their skin (leading up to this, snakes become dull coloured, more secluded, and the eyes appear cloudy). Seasonal changes may also reduce appetite in males particularly, but this is a natural type of fasting. So long as no rapid weight loss is noticed, going without food for up to several weeks is safe for pythons.

MAINTENANCE

Provide fresh water for your royal python each day. Spot clean any droppings from the substrate and do a full clean out every 4+ weeks or as you see fit. Use a disinfectant safe for reptiles, such as VetArk Ark Klens. Mist once a day to increase the cool side humidity as needed. Occasionally check over your snake for any problems such as weight changes, retained shed (particularly on the eye caps or tail tip) or otherwise.

FAQ

Do snakes carry salmonella? All reptiles carry naturally occurring amounts of the bacteria that cause salmonella, but this is rarely a health issue unless hygiene is not maintained. Make sure to remove waste as soon as possible from the enclosure and always wash your hands after handling or cleaning your reptile.

How do I handle my snake? Royal pythons are slow moving, docile snakes that become used handling quite quickly. Introduce handling gradually by sticking to short sessions and increasing it as they become more used to you. Always gently touch your snake mid-body so they are alert to your presence and then gently lift them from this area (don’t grab the head or the end of their tail). Being heavy bodied and terrestrial, make sure to support your royal python’s body at 2 points.  Don’t handle your snake for at least a day after you have fed them so they can digest their food properly.

Can my snake get sick? It is rare with correct husbandry, but still possible. Become acquainted with your nearest exotic vet when you get your snake for the instance that you may need to take them there for treatment. Any abnormal droppings may need to be taken in for sampling just in case of infection or parasites. An annual assessment of a stool sample by your vet is good practice. If your snake refuses to eat once or twice it shouldn’t be anything to worry about; observe their weight and body condition for any rapid weight loss. Wheezing or sneezing sounds coming from your snake may indicate a respiratory infection that needs to be treated by a vet. Regurgitation can also occasionally happen, but you can take your snake in for an assessment if you are concerned.

Should I feed my snake in a separate tank? This isn’t necessary and feeding in the enclosure won’t make your snake ‘cage aggressive’. Ingesting a small amount of substrate alongside their food is also fine, so long as the substrate is reptile-safe. All reptiles including snakes have slightly different attitudes, so some may be more jumpy or food-responsive, but letting your snake aware of your presence before reaching in and feeding using tongs is your best bet.

RESOURCES

• Ultraviolet Light and Reptiles, Amphibians [Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery]
• What UV Light Do Reptiles Need? [UV Guide UK]
• Guide to Ferguson Zones [Reptile Systems]
• Luiselli, L. and Angelici, F. M. (1997). Sexual size dimorphism and natural history traits are correlated with intersexual dietary divergence in royal pythons (Python regius) from the rainforests of southeastern Nigeria. Italian Journal of Zoology. 65(2):183-185.